His newspaper-wrapped Shinbunshi range gives a better idea of what he likes to drink: rich, umami-packed junmai, bottled unfiltered, undiluted and unpasteurised. Bold and robust at first, they mellow and deepen over time. They’re made to accompany food, develop with age and taste good warm.

Even the newspaper wrapping takes time. They use surplus copies from a local shop, and Kuwayama’s wife checks the pages, looking for attractive photographs and cheerful stories. She tries to keep the bad news off the bottles.